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Chapter Six
Sam and Ruth's Journal from Ibillin, Israel
November 11, 2013

This has been a busy week and it has gone by very rapidly.  Last Monday afternoon we were pleased to host a group of 23 from Pilgrims of Ibillin, led by Joan Deming, the current Director.  For the record, this included full board for two days, and certainly kept Badiya, our cook, busy.  I think it was a good time for us to assess just what is important in this job, and what part is not worth the worry.  Here is what I mean:

Around last Friday I received a message via Joan that a visiting Presbyterian Minister, Anne Conroy, had part of a day free and would like to visit the schools on Tuesday, the 5th.  This was the principal day of Joan and her group's visit, and Anne wanted to join in with them.  The issue was transportation, since Anne would be leaving her hotel in Jerusalem in the morning, and going back to Tel Aviv in the late afternoon for a meeting of the board of the Abraham Fund, an organization that has been working on Palestinian - Jewish relations for about 100 years.  It seemed important to us that Anne should have a good visit here.

I exchanged several emails with her with regard to transportation, and the outcome was that she would come to Ibillin by taxi, and we would arrange transportation for her to Tel Aviv.  Elias A. G. agreed to work it out.  At this point Joan received a message from Elias A. G. that Tuesday would be a holiday, and then I received a message from Anne that she would not be visiting after all.  I told Elias that we did not need to arrange transportation.  Then I received another message from Anne, saying that since it was only a holiday for the high school, she would be coming anyway, and that she had found a driver that would stay with her to Tel Aviv, and that he knew his way to the school.  Fine!  At around 10:00 on Tuesday I looked out the window and saw an unfamiliar taxi coming tentatively down the hill from the Christian Cemetary.  It turned toward the schools, and I ran down to the parking lot to be a good host.  Her first words were that there were no signs and that they had a terrible time finding the campus.  I took her to the elementary school to meet Joan, and on the way she told me she wanted to talk to Elias A. G.  I contacted him and he said he would be free for 20 minutes around 11:30.  At around 11 Joan's group, along with Anne, had gone to see the Church of the Beatitudes (at the opposite end of the campus) and I received a call from E. A. G. that he was free now, but had another meeting soon.  I took off practically running for the church, and Elias O. ( Badiya's husband and often our saviour) drove up beside me and said "Sam, you are in a hurry.  Jump in".  That was the best part of the morning.  We found Anne, and E.O. delivered her to E. A. G.  She had a good meeting, came to the guest house for lunch, and then vanished.  I hope she had a good time.

The story is that I tried too hard to make detailed plans, but in the end it didn't matter.  None of my plans worked out.  It is just like Danny Kaye in the Court Jester.  Plan A never works, and plan B is usually unknown until it happens.  What we have to do is simply let people watch how expertly we go from plan A to plan B.

So Anne Conroy came and went, Doug Brouwer's group of 17 came (as Joan's was leaving) for a meeting with Abuna, and on Thursday the Father Ritter's group from Northern Ohio came for a meeting and a tour of the church.  There seem to be three features that are consistent:
1.  The guide says he knows how to get here, and then complains that there are no signs.
2.  Abuna (or Elias A.G.) opens their minds to the plight of Palestinians in Israel, and the mission of the school.
3.  The groups buy many books, and leave happily impressed.

Well - so much for the boring part of the job.  We did venture out more, but primarily on foot, and we did encounter a few surprises.

With Joan's group we spent most of an afternoon visiting the home of Assas Daoud, an architect who lives in one of the oldest houses in Ibillin - it is prominent in a picture from the 30's, among only a few other buildings on this side of the mountain.  He showed us his restored, old olive press, run by one motor with belts to many mechanisms.  
After that he showed us the restoration of the Orthodox Church in which he had participated - here are some pictures from that afternoon:
Assad's yard  Orthodox Church  
Through garden to Orthodox Church                                        Interior of Orthodox Church
Dinner  Children with Abuna  Abuna with Joan's group
          Joan at Badiya's Buffet                                      Abuna with Children                                             Abuna with adults
Sometime After Joan's group left on Tuesday, we had plenty of BB work to do - washing and changing sheets, cleaning rooms, and getting the finances straight. An English teacher, Emil, called me up unexpectedly and asked me to come to his class to talk about the Great Depression.  I did well enough for him to ask me back the next day - but nothing since then. In addition a new volunteer, Sara Rangel, arrived.

Sarah recently graduated from Lewis and Clark College in Portland, and she was remarkably upbeat despite many hours in the air and a long stopover in London.  In addition, she seemed to have lost some money suspiciously on the flight, and the driver we had sent didn't find her. Fortunately she had only a backpack and a purse, and came up by train to Haifa where Elias O. met her and brought her to the Guesthouse.  Even though she had every right to be tired, she has jumped right into the activities here "with both feet".

Thursday evening we decided again to go in search of an accordion at Nabeeh's music school on the top of the hill.  This time we did meet Nabeeh briefly as students of strings, keyboard, piano, and a zither - like instrument called a qanun.  It is played with pics tied to the thumb and first finger of both hands.  Its special feature is set of tuning devices called mandals on each (triple) string.  With it the player can get half and quarter intervals which are not played in western music.  Here are some qanun players:
Qanun Players  Choir  Nabeeh
Qanun Players                                                                    Nabeeh's Choir                                           Nabeeh
Nabeeh did not react to the word "accordion", but he did invite us to come back for small concert in the evening.  We did return, and found the main room set up for about 100 guests.  A man from the Ibillin junior high school (we hadn't been told of it before) wondered why we were there, and then told us that this was not a concert, it was a day commemorating the birthday of a much-loved doctor who had died last May; but we could stay if we wished.  We stayed, ending up in the middle of the front row.  

Poster of Doctor  Keyboard player  Soloist

Nabeeh's choir along with a qanun player and a drummer did perform three songs, and later a tall and beautiful young woman sang a solo, sccompanied by a 14  - year-old boy who surveyed the audience as he played - just the way Will does.  In between there were long and short, emotional and humorous tributes to the man who had died.  In other words, we were in a Quaker memorial service, only in a different language.  (I felt like the young man who came to Paul's service and said at the end, "Paul seems to have been a great guy - I wish I had known him").

Ruth and I decided to make the trek across town to the bank, just to see how the drivers keep getting lost.  It was interesting.  Just before we left Emil appeared and announced that a worship group of which he is a member needed to find a place to discuss things for an hour or so and they would be using the guesthouse  - we said ok, as if we had a choice, and we set out on our walk.
Mosque near bank  aaaaaaamoslem Cemetary  on way to bank

I downloaded a satellite map of the town, but of course things look different on the ground.  We had to ask directions a couple of times, and each time we were asked why we were walking when we could drive, and why we were going to the bank since it was closed.  Good questions.  No matter - we did find the bank, which is about the first business on the road entering Ibillin. Then when we walked back home  and I think I traced the best route - but when I talked to Elias O. he said that would be hard for a bus.  The best idea is to give them his phone number and he will guide them in.  There is some kind of professional politics at work here.

Evening Worship
The Service is About to Begin

We returned to find lots of people in the guesthouse.  The "Hour or So" was approaching three hours, and showed no sign of ending.  In fact by 8 pm about 65 people were in every chair we could find, and the main room had been transformed into a church, with all the implements needed for a full Catholic service.  The congregation was enthusiastic and close - knit.   We were invited, and did attend the service - an hour and a half which seemed to be close to a praise meeting with Greek, Latin and Arabic liturgy. Fortunately Emil, who speaks English and translates skillfully sat between us and translated the entire service.  We even took communion, no questions asked.  

After the service there was a great spread of snacks, sweets and drinks - then in a short time all the church things disappeared, the chairs and tables were in their usual places, and we were alone - just like Brigadoon. 

Sunday morning  we decided on another hike, this time to a Jewish village only a 3 km from the north-eastern end of Ibillin.  We laid out the path, and noted on the satellite map a dirt road right to the village.  We set out, making a couple of wrong turns, and came to a main road with the dirt road in question more or less across from us.  The trouble was that before we could reach the road we would have to cross a deep ditch and climb a six-foot fence.  We saw that there was a more normal entry about two km away, and started walking down a very busy highway.  

Before long a familiar car pulled up on the other side.  It was Elias O.  "Where are you going on such a terrible place to walk?  Mitspe Aviv?  They won't let you in - but I know the security man, and he will let us in. Climb in the car - you won't get there on foot".

So began another interesting day with Elias O.  Apparently he had worked at a little Mini Market at the settlement, and knew a few people there.  He did get us through the electric gates, and took us on a little tour of the settlement, including several day-care centers.  The settlement mostly contained sensible little houses that fit into the environment, with grape vines, fruit trees, desert shrubs and no grass (except in front of the community hall).  Here are some views of Mitspe Aviv:

day care at Mitspe Aviv town hall Mitspe Aviv
Three-year-olds on a hike                                      Communuty Hall
Tires  House
Note the Tires in the Playground                                     A Home in Mitspe Aviv

We thought our visit was over when Elias O. seemed to pick out a house at random and knock on the door.  The man who emerged turned out to be a childhood friend of Elias's, named Eini, and he invited us in for Iraqi tea.  (Two friends of his were just leaving - they often went to Ibillin, but had never heard of the Mar Elias Schools).  We had a good conversation about how Elias' and Eini's parents had met, and how Eini's parents had escaped from Iraq.  The story was different from what we had heard from other sources, but we avoided politics.  

Ruth and Ruth  Eine's house 1
Ruth and Ruth in Mitspe Aviv                                   Eini's Home
Eini and friends  Eini's house 2
Eini, Elias O, Ruth and Sara enjoying Iraqi Tea                                          Eini's Kitchen  
On the way back to Ibillin Elias stopped at a modern olive press, and introduced us to the man who runs it.  
New Oil Press  Oil Workers and Friends
Modern Oil Press                                                  Olive Oil Workers and Friends

We did arrive home safely, despite having to add brake fluid before a steep downhill.